An explanation of the brush-on metalizer technique and some pictures of an XP-47 done by Michael McLeod


Red Steve overview:

I contacted Michael and we shared quite a few emails due to the fact that he was an F-18 pilot and being a Navy guy myself we had our histories to share.  Michael flies for Delta now as a 767 pilot and occasionally pops into KPHX on his route. His models are exquisite and he gladly gave permission to reprint the method for using brush-on metalizer that he used on his XP-47. I don't know about you but I love the way this technique looks. SO here is the HS thread he posted and some pictures. Enjoy! At the bottom is a couple of other models (A-6E and EA-6B) he did for the Secretary of the Navy John Lehman. I think the only give away to them being models is --no pilots!

Thanks again Michael for allowing me to post this!

Koster conversion on the old Revell-Monogram P-47D Razorback kit. Bet you can't guess what paint was used for the NMF and how it was applied. Hint: I did not follow directions.

It is in fact BRUSHED-ON Testors Metalizers (that allegedly can only be "sprayed"). Buffing Aluminum Plate works well overall. The trick though is not cotton or such, but to burnish the painted (several brushed layers) with a fine, highly polished, dental tool. The metal burnishing the MM really smashes it down at the molecular level and leaves the amazingly realistic metal patina. Additional trickery is used to provide the variations of "color" in the metal. Some very light application of chalk pastels (tan, blue) before burnishing will simulate various white aluminum, alclad, etc.

Now, for the critical point: how to SEAL THE SURFACE FOR DECALS? The burnished surface CANNOT be decaled directly and any form of "sealer" with thinner will destroy the burnishing effect. The only way recommended is to mist on several light coats of Tamiya X-22 (I tried the Future...just doesn't perform as well)to get it to the "wet look". Then decal, and hit decals with a protective overcoat of X-22. When cured, light mist overcoat of Testors Dullcoat Lacquer (don't worry about the lacquer thinner...just mist on slowly and it won't eat the finish at all and knocks the shine off to make "weathered aluminum")

As for the trenches on the fuselage: scrap the Koster fuselage. I used the fuselage from the kit, and only the nose section of the Koster Conversion from the cowl flaps forward...and the cowl flaps were scratched from beer...uh, I mean SODA can aluminum.

Roger comment on the landing gear! The scissor shackle needs to be rotated 90 degrees to the inboard...good catch!



 Michael McLeod

And now some Grumman Time!

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